Have a helper take the measurements for you if you’re making the costume for yourself. That way, you’ll be more accurate. If you can’t find a helper, take your measurements in front of a mirror so you can see better.
You can buy forming tubes from your local hardware store or online. Don’t use a tube that’s too narrow or else the LEGO head will look too skinny and your head may not fit inside. Double check the inner diameter of the tube before you buy it since it may be different than the outer diameter.
You can buy sheets of Styrofoam online or from craft stores. Be careful so you don’t break off pieces of the Styrofoam while you’re cutting it.
Work in a well-ventilated area since the spray adhesive may create harmful fumes. Avoid using hot glue or rubber cement since it could melt through the Styrofoam. Don’t trim off too much foam or else the pieces will fall into the form tube.
If the top and bottom pieces feel loose against the tubing, try using more layers of masking tape over the seam to hold it in place better. Rip or cut the tap into smaller sections so it’s less likely to bend or leave visible creases.
You can trace a bowl or dish if you don’t want to draw a circle freehand. Don’t try to force your head into the tube since you could break the foam and need to build the bottom piece again.
Try switching to 220-grit sandpaper if you want better control of how much foam you’re removing. Sanding foam can be messy and put foam particles in the air, so wear safety glasses and a dust mask while you’re working.
The smaller disc on top of the head is the “stud” piece that LEGO figurines have so you can stack other things on them. Be careful not to press onto the disc too hard or else you could break through the top piece.
You can also cut out the mouth shape if you want to be able to speak and breathe more easily.
You may be able to find foam-safe spray paint at hardware stores.
Ask a partner to help you take the measurements since and can be difficult to find them on your own. Write down your measurements so you don’t forget them.
The front and back pieces: 2 trapezoids where the top bases are the same as your shoulder width and the bottom bases are 5–6 inches (13–15 cm) longer. Use your shoulder-to-waist measurement as the height of your trapezoid. The side pieces: 2 rectangles where the short sides are 2 inches (5. 1 cm) longer than the depth of your chest and the others equal to the length as the angled sides on the trapezoid pieces. The top piece: 1 rectangle, where the long sides equal your shoulder width and the short side equals is 2 inches (5. 1 cm) longer than your chest depth.
Stack the pieces you cut out so you can see if they’re the same shape. Trim off any excess cardboard so they look identical.
Try sanding the edges of the cardboard slightly to help smooth out any sharp edges that your head might get caught on. Don’t put the hole too close to the edge or else your LEGO body won’t stay together very well.
Don’t make the hole too small or else the cardboard will bend when you put your arms down. Be careful not to position the holes too close to the sides since it could make the sides weaker.
After the glue dries, place a layer of 1 in (2. 5 cm) masking tape on each corner for an additional layer of support.
Look at the body designs for real LEGO figurines to get inspiration for your design.
If you don’t have a shirt that matches the color of your LEGO body, then you can either buy one or dye clothes yourself. Even if you want your LEGO costume to look “sleeveless,” wear a yellow shirt since LEGO figurines are yellow.
You can try using boxes to make LEGO legs, but they are difficult to walk in and uncomfortable.
Don’t try to put your head through the hole before you put your arms in since you’ll deform the cardboard and break the body.
The LEGO head may wobble around while you’re wearing it, so you may need to adjust it throughout the day.
