Fimo comes in 58g (2 ounces) and 350g (12. 5 ounces) packages. It is the stiffest of the clays and the most difficult to condition. [1] X Research source Fimo’s firmness lets it hold very fine detail, and smearing is rare. This is important to consider if you plan on painting your rose after crafting it. When fired, Fimo is very strong. It has a slightly glossy surface. It also buffs well and develops a high shine. This brand of clay also comes in a beautiful selection of colors, including two transparent clays, six “stone” textured clays, a glow-in-the-dark clay, and metallic colored clay (“perglantz”). There is also a soft formulation of Fimo that comes in a different selection of colors.
Promat is firmer than texture than Premo (its common substitute). It is harder to condition but less prone to smearing and stronger when fired. It is also flexible in thin sheets, which is optimal for when you craft the rose petals.
Cernit has a porcelain, waxy finish when fired and is often used for doll-making because of its high quality when fired. Though Cernit is the strongest of the clays, it is not as difficult to condition as Fimo. If you have delicate hands, choose Cernit over Fimo to go easy on your hands while still ensuring sturdiness.
If you’re going for texture, Fimo and Cernit are your best options because of their refined finish after being fired. If you’re going for color, Fimo has the wider range of colors and may produce the best contrast when crafting your rose. Light pink is also a nice color. When you attach the calyx, or the green outer whorl of the flower, the contrast between colors will make your rose pop with contrast.
The physical process of stretching and compressing, combined with the warmth of your hands, changes the texture of the clay, making it softer and more pliable. [2] X Research source It also makes the clay stickier and less brittle, which is ideal when making thin sheets for the petals. Take a chunk of clay (about a half an ounce or so) and squish it between your fingers. As it warms and softens, roll it between your palms into a snake shape. Then move your hands against each other in a circular motion to compress the snake back into ball. Repeat this process several times until the clay is soft and easily molded. For stubborn clay like Fimo, there are techniques for speeding up the conditioning process. Sit on the clay for 15-20 minutes to mildly warm it. Do not lay it in the sun or on a heating pad, as excessive heat will cause the clay to start curing, making it unusable. You can also use a food processor to chop the clay into smaller pieces to condition.
The pieces should be about the same size, but they don’t need to be exact. Having different sized petals will actually make your rose look realistic and natural. For a 2 inch (5. 1 cm) wide rose, roll your clay into a 1 inch (2. 5 cm) ball.
Roll the clay ball first to make it as smooth as possible. You want few visible lines on the surface of your petal. The size and shape of this petal should be similar to a standard guitar pick. The point, which will become the base of the rose, should be thicker than the opposite edge, which will be the top of the petal. The top edge should be about 1/16 of an inch thick. [3] X Research source
The edges of the rosebud should overlap a little.
Gently roll the edge of the third petal outward, using the tip of your finger. The edge of the petal should curl downward a bit and should stick up a little past the second petal.
Also roll the edge of this petal outward, making sure that it sticks up past the third petal.
The edges of these petals should be paper thin.
Gently roll the top of the edge back after attaching each petal. For a wider, more “bloomed” flower look, curl the whole petal back. For a more bud-like look, curl just the very edge.
Hold the rose gently and use a knife or needle to cut off some of the base, making the bottom of the rose flat. This will make attaching the calyx easier.
Heating causes chemical changes in the clay, making it hard and strong. Polymer clays, like the ones used for clay rose, don’t require a special kiln and can harden normally in a standard kitchen oven. The oven temperature must reach at least 210 °F (99 °C) for the polymer to fuse properly; however, if the temperature goes above 300 °F (149 °C), the clay may burn, giving off dangerous fumes. [5] X Research source Most manufacturers recommend temperatures between 250 and 275 degrees Fahrenheit for all clays that are not translucent. If you are using translucent clay, keep the temperature between 210 and 220 degrees Fahrenheit to avoid changing its color[6] X Research source
The calyx should have 6-8 points and should be about 1/16th of an inch thick. Pinch the edges of each segment gently to make them thinner.
Don’t worry if the calyx doesn’t perfectly stick to the rose. Re-firing the rose with a fresh piece of clay will create a strong bond and secure the attachment.
Once your rose is completely done baking, let it cool for a few hours before applying paint or other decorations.
Make a box out of strong clay and carefully attach several clay roses to the top. Attaching fired roses is ideal since joining two soft clay items can be difficult and can distort the shape. After you’ve successfully attached the items, fire it in the oven using the same temperature and bake time as the clay rose. Your box is now both practical and pleasant.
Simply attach a cluster of roses to a plain oval plate of clay. You can either join the two separately fired items using super glue, or you can use the fresh clay/fired clay re-fire method outlined above.
Hang the rose on a jump ring to make a clay rose earring. Run a necklace through the calyx hole and use the rose as a pendant. Or, you can put a hair clip through the calyx hole and use it as a fancy hair clip.
