Sandy soil will drain in a split second. This means you’ll need to work in 2 inches (5. 1 cm) of extra compost or topsoil to hold nutrients around the grass roots. Clay-packed soil holds water and drains very slowly. Plan to work in 2 inches (5. 1 cm) of extra organic matter like peat moss, composted animal manure, composted leaves or yard waste so the grass roots won’t suffocate.
If the soil has pH of 6 or below, it’s too acidic. This can be amended with the addition of lime. Talk with an expert at the garden center to determine exactly how much lime you need to add, or contact a turf professional. If the soil has a pH of 6. 5 or higher, it’s too alkaline for grass. This can be amended with the addition of sulfur or gypsum. To find out exactly how much you need to add, talk with a professional.
To rough grade a large area, use a tractor mounted blade. They’re quite expensive to purchase, but you can rent one from a home and garden store. [1] X Research source For smaller areas, you can rough grade by hand. Use hand tools like garden hoes or large landscaping rakes to break up the soil and soften the edges and slopes around holes and ditches.
Tilling the soil not only prepares it for the grass you’re about to lay, it also helps with weed control by turning over the weeds that are about to sprout. If your soil is especially compact and laden with clay, till to a depth of 8 inches (20. 3 cm) instead of 6, to make sure the grass roots will have plenty of space to grow without getting compacted.
You can spread the topsoil, compost and amendments by hand or using a rented soil spreading machine.
If your lawn is not rectangular, sketch your lawn and divide it into rectangles, triangles, or other easily measured sections. Find the area of each section and add them all together.
It’s best to choose a grass that’s native to your area. This way you can ensure it will grow well in your climate. Cool season grasses (grasses that grow fastest in the spring and fall) like Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and fine fescue grow best in the northern US states, where the winters are cold and the summers are hot. Warm season grasses (grasses that thrive in very hot weather) like Bermuda grass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, bahiagrass, and zoysiagrass, grow best in the southern states and subtropical regions. When you’re deciding which grass to get, take use into account as well. Do you plan to walk over your grass frequently, and play sports or have parties on the lawn? Or do you just want a pretty lawn to gaze upon from the window? Some varieties are sturdy, some are soft, some are high maintenance, and some are more colorful than others. Tell the sales representative what you’re looking for. Ask the representative whether they cut and deliver their sod the same day. Sod that sits around for several days before delivery won’t be as fresh and healthy.
Sod is quite heavy and usually comes on a heavy duty pallet in amounts of 450 square feet or more. A single pallet of sod can weigh over a ton (2,000 lbs), so a half ton pickup truck will not carry it well. Before placing your order, check whether there is a minimum delivery amount, and whether the sod farm or nursery can transport it to your site.
Starting from the middle instead will make it tricky to lay the sod in a logical matter without leaving any gaps or short ends. Make sure to roll each piece of sod in the same direction. If you roll a piece in reverse it will look very different from its neighbor, although they will eventually grow to an even appearance.
Use a box cutter to cut shorter pieces of sod where you need to fill in gaps or lay sod around corners. However, leave the sod pieces as large as possible. Don’t cut them into smaller pieces unless you need to, since the smaller pieces are more prone to drying out before they get established. Seam all the edges by firmly rolling them together. Avoid walking or kneeling on the sod as you lay it, since this can cause air pockets and indentations to form.
If needed, purchase sod or landscape “fabric staples” to pin the sod in place. Be sure to mark them clearly or paint them a visible color for removal once the sod has rooted.
If you’re laying sod around a tree, don’t lay it right up against the tree’s base. Laying it over the roots could damage the tree. Instead, cut out a circle so that the edge of the sod is a few feet from the tree. If you have a lot of trees or other obstacles to work around, you might want to get a sod cutter to make the job a little easier. Cutting shapes out of the sod using just a box cutter can get time consuming.
Use a sprinkler system to ensure the grass gets evenly watered. Don’t wait until the grass looks brown to water it. Do a soil test by sticking your finger into the dirt. If the soil feels moist to a depth of several inches, it’s fine. If the dirt feels dry on the surface or to a depth of an inch or two, it’s time to water it. Shade-grown grass should be watered less frequently, since it holds dew longer. Water just to the point of puddling, then stop. If the sod lifts up off the soil, it has been overwatered.
Always be sure the mower blades are sharp, straight and clean, Mow in a different directional pattern each time the grass is mowed to ensure even growth. You can bag the clippings, but leaving them on the lawn will actually improve its health, since they act as free fertilizer.
If you notice an area where the sod seems to be dead, replace it as soon as possible. Tear up the old sod, enrich the soil underneath with compost, and add fresh sod, making sure the seams lay right next to the healthy grass on either side. This will prevent weeds from coming up where the sod is dead.
