Grass may be easier to remove when the soil is moist. If using herbicides, follow all product safety information and allow enough time for the herbicide to break down in the soil. Most modern herbicides such as 2-4D and glyphosate (Roundup) will break down within three weeks if used correctly. [3] X Expert Source Benjamin HansenLicensed Landscape Contractor Expert Interview. 6 October 2020.
While grading the soil, remove rocks and other large objects that could interfere with the lawn’s roots. Do not bury construction debris or other materials not naturally present in your lawn, as this could harm the lawn roots. [5] X Research source
While grading the soil, remove rocks and other large objects that could interfere with the lawn’s roots. Do not bury construction debris or other materials not naturally present in your lawn, as this could harm the lawn roots. [5] X Research source
Do not just place the new material over the old. This can create layers of soil that can be difficult for water or roots to penetrate. [8] X Trustworthy Source University of California Integrated Pest Management Program Research-based pest management program run by the University of California’s Cooperative Extension Go to source Some varieties of perennial rye can grow roots well over a foot long, which is why well-worked soil and annual aeration is so important.
If you are in the US, look for a Cooperative Extension office in your area. Most of these will provide soil testing services. If you do not have access to a soil-testing laboratory, you may find some information at home by testing your soil pH. Most larger retail nurseries carry home test kits. Most lawns prefer a soil pH of about 6. 5–7.
If starter fertilizer is not available, use a balanced fertilizer (for instance, a 10-10-10 fertilizer).
There are other, less common methods of installing a lawn. “Plugs” are small pieces of sod that are planted at intervals, then allowed to spread across bare soil. “Sprigs,” also called “stolons,” are stems of grasses that creep along the ground, such as Bermuda or Zoysia. These can be treated as seeds, but take care that the larger nodes on the sprigs are under the soil and watered regularly. [14] X Trustworthy Source University of California Integrated Pest Management Program Research-based pest management program run by the University of California’s Cooperative Extension Go to source
Grass types are discussed in more detail at the start of the section on grass seeds. Sod is often easier to choose, since you can see and feel the grass before purchasing.
Grass types are discussed in more detail at the start of the section on grass seeds. Sod is often easier to choose, since you can see and feel the grass before purchasing.
Install the sod right away. Sod is often sprayed with a light dose of liquid nitrogen right before cutting. When left stacked on a pallet too long, the nitrogen can create heat that kills the sod.
Water during the early morning when possible, to give the grass time to dry out before fungus can establish itself. Do not water so much that it saturates the soil and causes pooling, as that will lift the sod off the soil and interfere with root growth.
Cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and fescues, should be sown in autumn, when upper soil temperatures are between 68 and 86ºF (20–30ºC). [18] X Research source Warm-season grasses, such as bahiagrass, centipede grass, carpet grass, and buffalo grass are best sown in spring or summer, when upper soil temperature is between 68 and 95ºF (20–35ºC). [19] X Research source
Look for advertised germination percentages above 75%, and an expiration date no more than ten months in the past, for best sprouting results. [21] X Research source Look for grass seed containing less than 0. 5% weed seeds. Avoid annual ryegrass, which dies permanently in winter. Avoid rough “agricultural” perennial ryegrass, or mixtures that include more than 20% of any type of ryegrass, or it can take over your lawn with its rough texture and appearance. [22] X Trustworthy Source Royal Horticultural Society Leading gardening charity in the U. K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plants Go to source Avoid grass seeds sold without an identifying variety.
Utility grass (designed for moderate to heavy use) can be sown at ½ ounces per square yard (15–20 grams per square meter). Most “ornamental” grass (designed for light use) can be sown at ¾ oz per sq yd (20–25g per sq m). High quality ornamental grass can be sown at 1 oz per sq yd (30g per sq m).
For grass seeds sown in the summer, a thin layer (¼ in. or 6mm) of mulch can help retain moisture. [27] X Trustworthy Source University of California Integrated Pest Management Program Research-based pest management program run by the University of California’s Cooperative Extension Go to source Straw or hay mulch is not recommended, as it may contain weed seeds.
If using a blend with Kentucky bluegrass, keep watering with the gentle, more frequent schedule after the first sprouts appear. Look closely for the next few days for a new layer of small seedlings to sprout, as “KBG” can take longer to germinate than other species. [30] X Research source After this second wave of sprouts appears, you can switch to a less frequent watering schedule.
Once the grass has reached the desired height and the lawn is well-established, mow according to preference. Never remove more than 1/3 of the grass height at a time.
